Thursday, December 22, 2011

A Break from Spain

A few weeks ago, I jumped on a plane and headed to Germany, the land of my ancestors. Wait, or was that Switzerland? Let’s go to mom’s side. Painter… sounds pretty English to me. And didn’t Grandma say her Grandmother was from Sweden who may have had a child who married an Irish man? And there were some Germans in there somewhere I think. Well this whole identity issue just got more complex.

I think we Americans with European roots are kind of funny about the whole land of our ancestors thing. We usually pick one country to identify with often leaving out another 5, 6, or even more that in reality could be given equal weight. “We’re Swiss.” “They’re Norwegian.” “She’s Italian. You know how Italian girls are right?” No, I don’t know how Italian girls are. I’ve never met one. Furthermore, the girl you’re referring to is American. And my all time favorite: The Irish. It’s always amazed at how many full blooded Irish-Americans I meet on St. Patrick’s Day.

I know some people can trace these things back better than others, especially more recent immigrants. It’s also true that some immigrant groups hold on to their group identity more than others for various reasons. I’m not trying to say it’s totally ridiculous to seek you ancestral past out. I would follow my family’s tracks from the beginning of human history if the data were readily available. It’s just the oversimplification of it all that bugs me.

Most of my life I thought about my European roots in this way. My family’s last name comes from a German speaking part of Switzerland so I have always thought about my ancestors as being Swiss-German. It doesn’t help that every time I have been abroad I have been mistaken for a German at some point. In my Afrikaans language course I took while studying abroad in South Africa my teacher mistook me for a German more than half the semester. I imagine this was one part appearance, one part cultural. When she finally realized I was American she told me I was the quietest American she had ever met. Most recently here in Spain out our introductory meeting for this program, one German girl asked me where I was from in the process of seeking out German companions amidst the mounds of English speakers. She told me I looked very German but in the end my extremely American Chiefs sweatshirt kind of gave it away.

Although I’ve grown to think more critically about ancestral roots in the past few years, I still couldn’t quite help myself from thinking I had some connection to Germany, or at least this region of Europe. And I do. But to me, it’s more about understanding the social me than the personal me. Certainly, being of Swiss-German descent has affected how I have existed socially as a white person in the United States of America with our history of racial discrimination in the paths most important for social mobility. It probably has less to do with why I like Bratwurst so much.

Ok, now to why you really clicked on this blog. The pictures.

I flew into Frankfurt friday afternoon and met my friend Elisabeth who I met while studying abroad in South Africa. We then took an hour long train ride to Marburg where she studies. My first impression was a less than steller-looking train station. Elisabeth told me it would get better. She was right. Here is historical Marburg with the castle on top of the hill.

 
We went out that night with a bunch of her friends. Fortunately there was plenty of good english among them. To get to the old part of town you actually take an elevator connected to a car garage 15 or so flights (or take the stairs). I had my first German beer. It could have been in my head, but it was probably the best beer I've ever had. Here are some of the German christmas festivities in the town.


Ah, bratwurst.


Visiting the Castle.




I once read in one of my classes about how the children and grandchildren of immigrants view their identity. The first children born in the new country (or those brought over as young children) often try to break with their ancestral identity to assert themselves as members of the new land. The next generation, however, becomes so fully assimiliated (this model was probably based on industrial immigration in the U.S., not all immigrants assimilate) that they actually seek out the customs and language of their ancestral past in order to assert their own uniqueness amidst the masses. I think many of us with European roots are stuck in the phase. Maybe we cling to these identities for the same reason third generationers do.




Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Jaénsgiving!

I knew this year's Thanksgiving would be a little different. It would be the first away from my family and country. Other than having my 21st birthday abroad in South Africa, this would be my first major celebration/tradition  away from the homeland. I did miss seeing my family but I was fortunate enough to have a video skype conversation with my entire immediate family and grandparents.

Despite missing my normal Thanksgiving, I couldn't have asked for a better one given the situation. I met in Baeza with what I believe are the nearest Americans (two hours away by bus) as well as a host of Spaniards, a Scot, and one from France. I first showed up to Mary Ann's (the Scot) apartment where they where cooking one of the turkeys. Mary Ann is on the left and Anna, one of two Iowans present, is on the right.


In a nearby apartment, Megan, another english teacher from North Carolina, was cooking some classic Thanksgiving dishes and desserts. Green bean casserole and pumpkin pie topped the list for me. It was great to have those tastes of home for a night. It made Jaénsgiving taste a bit more like Thanksgiving. After all the cooking was done we headed to one of the local bars where we would be eating. The end result looked something like this. There's Dave, an American from Colorado (who also become know as "Davy Gravy" at some point during the night), behind the counter pretending he was the master chef.


Here's the whole group sitting down enjoying the meal.


Of course it wasn't a completely American Thanksgiving. Mix Andalusians, food, drink, and a guitar, and you're bound to hear some flamenco at some point. The First Thanksgiving, at it's best, is a story of multicuturalism, right?


Well, that was my Jaénsgiving. Thanks to those who made it taste a bit like home.